The Fisherman's Smock

The Fisherman’s smock - A familiar staple on our Labour and Wait rails. Defined as ‘something one creeps or slips into’, this well-respected garment has been an essential for British fisherman for over a century gaining popularity amongst creatives and tradespersons alike. But where did this protective layer come from and how did it creep into our shops as an example of functional, utilitarian clothing?

The purpose of the smock was simple - provide a protective layer for fisherman as they endured the elements of good old British weather. Smocks were originally cut from sailcloth, a sturdy canvas or stout cotton, making this garment a strong and durable extra layer. It protects against the elements and its loose fit affords ease of movement, while its canvas construction allows it to be layered over shirts or woollen sweaters, making it useable throughout the year. The slightly shortened sleeves prevented the cuffs getting wet while the tight fit and high neck ensured maximum protection from the elements. The smocks were typically dyed in indigo, white or red depending on the wearers region allowing the use of colour as an identifier for a fisherman’s hometown at a mere glance.

Fisherman’s smocks, or slops, as they were more commonly known amongst the seafarers, were often sewn by the women of the fishing communities using patterns passed down by oral tradition through maternal family lines, with each region incorporating unique adaptations to suit local conditions and traditions.

In parts of Scotland in the late 19th century, you would have seen knee-length versions called dopplers, adapted for the harsher weather of the highlands.

Portrait of a Man wearing a Doppler

Across the South of England, particularly in areas like Sussex, versions with shirt-like collars, much like our collared smock, were especially popular; while on the east and west coastlines, the more recognisable funnel-necked smocks were commonplace.

Tamping His Pipe - Frank Tamely - 1886

Fisherman Reading - Frank Richards - 1890

Despite these regional variations, throughout their extensive history, the smock design had remained simple in function and design. As such, the smocks we make today are largely unchanged from their original purpose - the only alteration being a triple patch pocket. This is of course a contemporary addition as pockets would have been a mild hazard dangerously prone to snagging near tools and machinery or as excellent hooking points for the occasional sea monster. In fact historically, smocks had as few extraneous details as possible; the perfect utilitarian garment.

These cheap, hard wearing and easy to find smocks provided the perfect protection for artists as well as sailors. In the early decades of the twentieth century, smocks piqued interest beyond the British isles through an artistic movement based in Cornwall. Drawn by the unique light at Newlyn, a small fishing port on the west Cornish coast, artists including Stanhope Forbes, Walter Langley and Barbara Hepworth sought inspiration for the French plein-air, ‘outdoor’ work, adopted the area for their artistry. The fishermen, their work and clothing would become a focus of their paintings, visually documenting the culture and customs of fishing villages; the garment itself would become the clothing of choice for the very same painters. It was the perfect painter’s overall - its practical qualities suited the nature of the artists work and soon enough the smock became a garment associated with the new bohemian identity of the Newlyn School. To this day, we still associate it with artists and artisans.

Mary Watts - Sculptor 

Frida Khalo - Artist

Today, the Smock maintains its legacy of clothing for function first, becoming the uniform for many nautical schools and training centre's as well as being donned by craftsman and artists alike.

Our smocks, both Fishermans and Collared continue to be a customer favourite - each one sold going on to build on its heritage as the timeless utilitarian garb.

We are pleased to bring an additional colour to our range of Fisherman's smocks - a sophisticated Olive. These will be available across our shops from early August, or you can pre-order yours here!

The Fisherman's smock continues to be available in Black, Ecru and Navy in all of our shops to try on for size.