Product Spotlight - Lavenham Gilet

Autumn is upon and is there more an ample time to talk about the venerable ‘gilet’? No. Would you believe, the humble gilet has an extensive history that goes much farther back than the brief acquisition by the Sloane Rangers of the 1980s. It’s origins can be traced as far back as the 15th century where it became a workwear staple for peasant workers across Europe in the form of a jerkin. Its functions were two-fold; to insulate the body’s core in the variable working environments while providing ample room for movement that would allow workers to successfully complete their working tasks.

From here the jerkin’s purpose evolved, becoming popular amongst the 16th century aristocracy of the world, infamously worn by King Henry VIII for hunting and country pursuits. The jerkin was often made from leather, hide or animal fur, supported with sturdy stitching and later became padded for additional warmth.

Fast forward a century and the jerkin fell out of fashion with people favouring a fitted waistcoat. Over the next few century’s this gilet-waist coat hybrid would be transformed for individual purpose by businessmen, the military and as a feminine garb. Women often donned a gilet made of silks and linens as an additional layer over bodices and slips, while the British Army commissioned a leather panelled, wool lined gilet for the soldiers on the frontlines of World War One.

The modern day gilet became the uniform of the outdoorsman, and provides a sleek transitional layer for those looking to embrace the countryside.

Now, the conundrum of the correct pronunciation of ‘gilet’ is debated often in all of our shops. The etymology of the word gilet derives from the Spanish ‘Jileco’ or ‘Chaleco’, originating from the Turkish word ‘Yelek’. However, the simple translation of the word gilet, means vest in French.

We say ‘zhee-lay’, but you can say what you like.

So what about our gilet? We partnered with Lavenham to create a perfect mix of Labour and Wait utility with Lavenham’s heritage and craft. Founded in 1969, Lavenham have over 50 years of quilting expertise and they still make every Lavenham item in Suffolk. Their current production site is just six miles from the original factory location in the village of Lavenham, from which they take their name.

Their founder, Mrs Elliot, created the world’s first nylon quilted horse rug. Horse rugs of the time were made from wool that was slow to dry and quick to perish. Mrs Elliot wanted to create a hardwearing and durable item that would last for years to come. By predominantly working with British manufacturers, sourcing reliable and sustainable materials, Lavenham became renowned for their durability and quality.

Lavenham outerwear was originally designed to be worn whilst horse riding but has evolved from its original purpose to become a modern wardrobe mainstay. Known for combining practicality with timeless style and traditional manufacturing techniques, Lavenham's quilted gilets have become wardrobe staples, designed to be worn across seasons and made to last for years.

All of Lavenham’s manufacturing continues to takes place in Suffolk, where they employ over 100 skilled local craftspeople, with cutting, quilting and quality control all taking place under one roof.

Labour and Wait have long admired Lavenham’s history and commitment to quality and durability and founders Simon and Rachel are particular fans of Lavenham’s iconic diamond quilted fabric with an appreciation of quilted garments as very practical and workmanlike. When the opportunity arose to collaborate with Lavenham, Simon and Rachel developed the idea of a completely reversible gilet with a contrasting look on each side. One side holds a very classic Lavenham look, featuring their quilting and hallmark sloping patch pockets. The reverse is the Labour and Wait side, selecting a very practical cotton canvas as a nod to our famous aprons, with workwear detailing and a corduroy trim, including a yoke and side panels which don’t appear on the other side. The quilted fabric harks back to the equestrian roots of Lavenham, and the canvas side took inspiration from clothing worn by grooms and stable boys.

Our unisex gilet is an unfussy expression of the heritage of Lavenham with the timeless utilitarian aesthetic of classic workwear. The gilet is functional and modest and we hope the collaboration has resulted in a timeless practical product - something we strive for in everything we do.

You can pick up your own Lavenham gilet in either brown or black here or try on for size in all of our shops.